To win a James Beard Award means having made it to the upper echelons of the restaurant industry. Often compared to the likes of the Oscars, the awards can put chefs- and the cities their restaurants are in- on the culinary map. This year, two Providence restauranteurs are James Beard semifinalists in the Best Chef Northeast category.
This year isn’t the first time Rhode Island has received James Beard nods. In fact, this year’s best chef nominees Benjamin Sukle of Birch, and Derek Wagner of Nick’s on Broadway have been nominated in different categories in previous years. Derek Wagner even won in a 2014 James Beard category that celebrated sustainability. The fact remains, the Ocean State has only claimed the Best Chef Northeast award once, and that was over two decades ago.
The odds of the title going to Ocean State talent are slim from a numbers perspective. Out of the 18 other semifinalists, six come from Massachusetts and nominations are sprinkled across seven states. But Chef Derek Wagner, says it’s just nice to be among the list of talented chefs.
“It’s tough with our little state to be included always with these major market areas,” said the Nick’s on Broadway chef.
Wagner however, is quick to add that Little Rhody is slowly getting the recognition it deserves. Rhode Island’s size has always been seen as a detriment to its culinary scene, but now fine dining patrons and chefs are finding the opposite to be true.
“Our saving grace here is our economy of scale. There’s a connectivity because it’s such a small space,” said Wagner.
Wagner points to an efficient supply chain where a chef doesn’t have to be an award winner or go very far to have access to freshest seafood and produce.
“I can get to my farms in 15 to 20 minutes, and they can get to me in 15 to 20 minutes,” Wagner added.
Wagner makes a case for Rhode Island’s food scene crediting his Smithfield upbringing as what steered him into a career in food. Wagner grew up exposed to the state’s food economy. Not on purpose, just by being a Rhode Islander and visiting the orchards and docks as a kid.
“It’s just such a food and culture driven state [Rhode Island],” said the chef.
Wagner has done some travelling but don’t expect him to take his talents elsewhere. He made a choice to stay a long time ago.
“There was always part of me that resented the fact that, if anything was good, it was good for Rhode Island, it wasn’t just good,” said Wagner, explaining his decision to stay.
“We were never given acknowledgement for our places, our origins.”
The constant underdog status is what inspired Wagner to build a food scene of his own.
So far, his stubbornness is paying off. Sure, he’s been nominated for another ‘food Oscar’ but Nick’s on Broadway celebrates its 15th birthday in February.
